Metro Turbo'd Deluxe

Hi guys,
Brand new to the forum - only saw it tonight on Ausmini.
I've been restoring a Deluxe for a long, long time and I've installed a Metro Turbo engine.
All standard at this point, on what seems to be an good used engine.
It's a 1989 engine, and I bought it in 1995, so may prove to be low kms / low wear.
Once the car has been bedded in and I am confident about the condition of the engine I'd be interested to make some changes.
I ditched the ECU, so I think it has 7psi throughout.
I got a brand new Bosch fuel pump and Malpassi regulator, but the fuel pump was providing WAY too much pressure so an electrically minded mate helped me set up a resistor pack. Pressure is now quite sensible and the pump is nice and quiet.
Will post some pics soon.
How many other Metro Turbo cars are there in Oz?
Seems to be plenty of other turbo A series variants!
Cheers
Matt

hey Matt ,

Welcome to the forum , great to see more members coming.

As for metro turbo engined cars there is a couple around in sydney , where abouts are you located ?

Thanks Benjamin.
I'm in Canberra.
As a matter of interest, do Metro Turbo cars in NSW need Engineers Certificates to get registered? If so, is it due to the bulkhead mods or the turbo itself?
I just love zooming around listening to the wastegate do its thing!

Re engineers, as far as I know I think it would be for both mine is supposed to be engineered for turbo and I haven't cut my bulkhead. There is a car in Sydney red850 goes by the username boostedmini he had to brace the inside of the bulkhead for the engineering (metro turbo engine) .

That's interesting. I've spoken to an engineer and he was happy with my bulkhead box job, and that's without bracing. I'm sure there's engineers, and there's engineers.
My car just passed for rego, no questions asked.
I do think I will get the engineering certificate just to be on the safe side.

found this on the net:

1.2 MODIFICATIONS REQUIRING CERTIFICATION UNDER LA CODES
The following is a summary of modifications that may be performed under Section LA:
 Fitting engines greater than 120% of original power and/or engine mass;
 Fitting performance engines;
 Fitting engines from non original equipment sources;
 Installing a supercharger or turbocharger; and
 Modifying the engine and engine components that results in an increase in engine power
of more than 20% and/or affects exhaust emissions

http://www.rego.act.gov.au/assets/PDFs/Light%20Vehicle%20Modifications%20in%20the%20ACT.pdf

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/NCOP3_Section_LA_Engine_01jan2011_v3.pdf

so looks like turbocharging definatly needs engineer

Not much arguing with that - thanks for the heads up Benjamin.

On another topic, does anyone have any wisdom on where & how the air filter can be located? I've currently got it plumbed around behind the rocker cover, over to just behind the grille. It works, but is a bit of a clunky set up. Sure it picks up cold air, but then picks up heat from the rocker cover on the way through. Are there any simple ways to pipe it through to live under the mudguard (without getting caked in crud)? Or are there "micro" sized ones so it could sit right near the wiper motor?

It seems the ERA minis had an air filter under the guard, but it must have been in some kind of housing/shield.

Thanks in advance.

I have mine up on the wiper motorjust using a 2 1/2 motorbike unifilter works fine but would look nicer with a small k&n. As long as you have a side mounted radiator anywhere in the engine bay will be cold while car is moving anyway

Thanks benjamin.
I could start with a Unifilter I guess, and see how that goes.
Cheap enough too.
What hose do you use and where did you get it?
I got the orange hose from Mini Spares, which is okay but probably not great.

Matt

I just used a mixture of blue silcon hoses and aluminium pipe , all can be sourced off ebay pretty cheap and you can get aluminium welded for around $10 a weld . Plazmaman in wetheral park do it and they also stock all the piping too.

Ordered myself a 57mm silicone right angle to fit the turbo as the starting point for a new intake arrangement. Once I have this, I'll fit up some ally tube and then order another silicone piece. I'll build it piece by piece, so I can do it well, then change it all over with the current piping. I've decided to keep the air cleaner forward, down near the starter, behind the grille.
Any pics available of how to do a dump valve for the metro turbo engine? And are all dump valves as good as one another, or are they very application speciific?
Thanks.
Matt

The car felt just a bit happier today running around in mid-20s temps. Thermo fan runs a lot less, for one thing!
Should be at its best in winter I suppose, esp. with temp control provided by the thermo fan.
My dad's mini has to have the grille covered over to stay warm in winter, but its got the regular metal fan - cools things down even when you dont want things cooled down!

MattEll wrote:Ordered myself a 57mm silicone right angle to fit the turbo as the starting point for a new intake arrangement. Once I have this, I'll fit up some ally tube and then order another silicone piece. I'll build it piece by piece, so I can do it well, then change it all over with the current piping. I've decided to keep the air cleaner forward, down near the starter, behind the grille.
Any pics available of how to do a dump valve for the metro turbo engine? And are all dump valves as good as one another, or are they very application speciific?
Thanks.
Matt

i Find turbosmart products to be very good in my opinion , so i personally like the Type 1 valve. Nice and compact so fits in our little engine bays well. You will have to block off the original one in the plenum (can just replace spring with bit of fuel line) and new mount can be welded to plenum or put in the pipe going to the plenum. closest possible is the best.

Benjamin,
What is the closest thing to a straight swap for the turbo?
From the bit of reading I've done, it sounds like the T3 is a lost cause - others use T2, T25, GT17?
I'm interested in changing over the turbo, but don't feel like spending too much time/money on all the anciallary stuf like mainfolds/adaptor plates/oil feed/drain etc.
Thanks.
Matt

MattEll wrote:Benjamin,
What is the closest thing to a straight swap for the turbo?
From the bit of reading I've done, it sounds like the T3 is a lost cause - others use T2, T25, GT17?
I'm interested in changing over the turbo, but don't feel like spending too much time/money on all the anciallary stuf like mainfolds/adaptor plates/oil feed/drain etc.
Thanks.
Matt

Hey Matt , T3 isnt a lost cause but it is an old design turbo and there are alot of better designs out now.

All depends what you want from the car , a t3 will make good power but is farily late to come on boost where as a T2 will come on boost under 3000rpm.

T2 T3 and gt17 have different oil feed threads and dump pipe flanges so all need different things changing .

i have a setup that will work well on your car if you are interested ? , it is a T28 from a nissan GTR skyline (1 of the 2 turbos) on a custom 1 1/4 ceramic coated steam pipe manifold and includes drain and oil feed and 2.5'' dump pipe . Turbo is fresh rebuild with 360deg thrust and steel turbine.

if your interested we can work something out?

this is the sort of info thats handy! being a turbo n00b its nice to hear opinions on the turbo stuff related to usage on A-series